For paints and most supplies start here where I’ve assembled a shopping list for you at Jerry’s Artarama.   Search student supply lists for “Susan Hanna” if the link fails.

PAINT: All classes use the same PAINT colors. You need ALL 7 colors. During your lessons, you will improve your composition skills, learn new techniques, cultivate proper care of materials, and use a palette including only Titanium White, Yellow Ochre, Lemon Yellow, Permanent Alizaron Crimson, Burnt Sienna, Cobalt Blue, and Ultramarine Blue.

For oil paints, please obtain Windsor & Newton “Winton” student grade oil colors or their “Artists’” professional grade colors. Do not waste your money on “store brands” as you will be disappointed and unable to mix the colors properly. If you already own professional oil paints, please assemble only the above-listed colors. (There are many other excellent oil paint brands out there: some are Williamsburg and M. Graham.)

Choose a palette KNIFE: plastic set or single metal. You need a trowel shaped one. Metal ones are more flexible and easier to use. 

CANVAS: I recommend no smaller than an 11 x 14 canvas board. But you may choose a larger size or stretched canvas. I suggest using a flat, canvas panel and using masking tape to tape it to a slightly larger piece of sturdy cardboard. This will allow you to keep paint off your easel (or table) and to easily carry your painting. Canvases are available locally or you can browse the selections at Jerry’s Artarama when you look at my list. 

EASEL: Any that will hold your canvas at the correct height will work. Online students will need to arrange a camera to show your canvas to me during the lesson. You may also use your phone or other camera to show me your work. Your canvas should not be flat on a table. 

CLEANING: Murphy’s Oil Soap undiluted in a jar will do a good job of cleaning your brushes. I recommend the Silicoil Jar on my list at Jerry’s Artarama. You will need paper towels and a trash can nearby. Another option is to use odorless mineral spirits in a Silicoil Jar. This is good to remove most paint prior to cleaning in the Murphy’s Oil Soap. Then you can soak the brushes in the Murphy’s in a glass jar to finish the process. (But the Murphy’s will suffice if you’d rather not use a solvent. You will find the jar on my supply list at Jerry’s or in-store at many local art supply stores.) Baby wipes are great for cleaning oil paint off skin and non-porous surfaces like your table and brush handles. I keep them close at hand while painting. 

BRUSHES: I like the synthetic hog brushes found at Hobby Lobby. Their Master’s Touch line is durable and a good value. However, any synthetic hog will do. Please don’t bring sable or real hog bristle brushes. Sable is too soft, and the real hog will shed bristles. Flats or brights are the best for our purposes. Filberts are a nice addition for fine lines and softer edges. I recommend Hobby Lobby Master’s Touch “flats” #5, and #8, and “Brights” #4, #10, #12, and #16. Be sure to choose brushes rated for oil paints. 

I use a glass jar to store my clean brushes upright and a metal can to hold the dirty brushes upright. I fill my clean brush jar with rice, sand, or beans to hold the brushes apart from each other. It makes it easier to choose your brush when you start to accumulate a lot of them!

LIGHTING: If you don’t have great task lighting where you paint, you can use a clip light. I use a small, gooseneck, LED clip light purchased on Amazon: https://a.co/cVZtkI0